Where to find Lutz Green Leaf Winter Keeper Beet?


“Does anyone sell real honest to God Lutz Green Leaf Winter Keeper Beet seed?  I’ve been very disappointed in buying this seed from mail order catalogs.  It’s not Lutz in my opinion. Real Lutz is 15 inches high and grows big sweet beets up to 6 inches. Have you run field trials on this seed? Can you verify it’s the real deal? Do you have a picture of the beets? Who is selling the real thing?

Donald in Iowa”

___________________________________________________________________

Hi Donald,

Thank you for the email regarding Lutz Green Leaf Beets.  Lutz is a pretty popular heirloom variety, but the true strain of the variety does not match your description.

Lutz BeetPer the “Garden Seed Inventory”, 6th ed., published by Seed Saver’s Exchange, the description of Lutz Green Leaf Beet is:

“60-80 days – Smooth purple-red top-shaped beet, 2.25-3 in. diameter, lighter zones, half-long taproot, long glossy 14-18 in. tops with pink midribs, good for greens, excellent keeper, grows large without getting woody, good fresh, for winter and fall use.”  The variety is also legally known as New Century, Winter Keeper, Lutz Green, Lutz Salad, and Lutz Green Top.

Many companies like Harris Seed, Johnny’s and Territorial carry a true strain of the Lutz Green Leaf Beet, and it matches the description above.

I hope this information helps you out.  If you have any other questions, please feel free to contact me.

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© Mertie Mae Botanics LLC and Horticulture Talk!, 2015. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this blog’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Mertie Mae Botanics LLC and Horticulture Talk! with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.

I’m Baaaaaa-yack…


As you may have noticed, Horticulture Talk has been pretty quiet for the last few months as this horticulturist has been a bit under the weather.  Things are returning more to normal for now, so I am hoping to have more time to post my responses to your questions.  As those of you who have asked questions know, I still respond personally to your questions even when I’m not here much.  As I catch up here, I will be posting those responses so other can gain knowledge from them too.  As always, you are encouraged to send in any and all questions related to gardening, and I will take a stab at them and feature them here.

Hope this finds all my readers well and on the way to a successful 2015 gardening year!

All-America Selections Announces Perennial Trial


Reposted with permission of AAS:

                                       

All-America Selections
Launches Herbaceous Perennial Trial 

Endorsed by, and in Partnership with, the Perennial Plant Association

All-America Selections (AAS) has a long, 80+-year history of being the only independent North American trialing organization that trials new varieties then grants branded awards to the best performers. That 80-year history has proven to be a good model with trialing protocols that have been refined to withstand the test of time and basics that will work with perennial entries as well as annuals and edibles.

Perennial Plant Association (PPA) is a trade association composed of growers, retailers, educators, landscape designers and contractors that are professionally involved in the herbaceous perennial industry. Together, the two organizations have determined the details necessary to conduct a thorough and horticulturally sound perennial trial and PPA actively endorses this new AAS trial.

The perennial trial will follow many of the basics of the recently launched AAS Vegetative Ornamental trial. Entries accepted will be herbaceous perennials propagated from seed, cutting, tissue culture or bare root. A seed entry can be trialed against a vegetative or TC comparison and vice-versa. Entries will be trialed next to comparisons, in order to continue the AAS legacy.

The primary difference with the AAS Herbaceous Perennial trial is that it will be a three winter trial allowing the AAS judges to measure and record winter survivability and subsequent growing season performance. Other AAS trial entries will continue to be trialed over one growing season. Breeders who wish to have their herbaceous perennials tested for first-season performance can continue to use the one-season trial. All other herbaceous perennials would be placed in the three year perennial trial.

For the long-term, entries have to be new, never-before-sold, but, after submission to the AAS Herbaceous Perennial Trial, they may be introduced commercially. After the trial is completed, if the entry scores high enough to be become an AAS Winner, after criteria is met and the announcement is made by AAS, the breeder may then market that variety as an AAS Winner.

However, for the first entry year (entries submitted by July 1, 2015), AAS will accept entries that have been on the market for twelve months or less.

Dallas Arboretum Director of Horticulture and AAS Judge, Board of Director and Perennial Trial Task Force member Jenny Wegley comments: “I’m very happy to have helped All-America Selections get to this point of trialing perennials. Because of an 80+ year history in doing great plant trials, this is a natural step and a great service to the industry and to home gardeners. It will be very interesting to trial the perennial entries we receive then share the results.”

“National perennial trials are important for both the industry and the consumer. As a previous trial program director and AAS Trials Judge, I know how important it is to have the program properly structured and managed nationally. Rather than have both organizations (PPA & AAS) develop competing perennial trail programs, it seemed the perfect solution was to instead team up and work together. We think this collaboration is the key to finally executing a highly organized, thorough and well-marketed perennial trial program that will benefit both PPA members and their customers.” PPA Southern Regional Director and Board of Directors Trials Chair, AAS Perennial Trial Task Force Member, Leslie F. Halleck.

The pilot program of trialing perennials will begin immediately with entries due July 1, 2015. Breeders can download entry forms here. Those entries will be sent to approximately 24 trial sites beginning in early 2016. The first AAS Winners from the Perennial Trials will be announced in 2019.

For additional information, please contact Diane Blazek at dblazek@aas-ngb.org or 630-963-0770.

Planting Options for Your Shade Garden


Reprinted with permission of the National Garden Bureau:

 

Planting Options for the Shade Garden

Do you live in a mature neighborhood with a lot of great shade trees?

Or do you live in an apartment or home where most of your garden space faces north?

Or does that big high-rise next door block a lot of the sun from reaching your balcony?

Don’t despair! There are many garden plants that can not only survive, but thrive in the shade. This is by no means a complete list but a short list to get you started in the right direction if you wish to get more usefulness from your garden’s shady areas.

Annuals:
Begonia, wax
Caladium
Coleus 
Fuchsia
Impatiens, New Guinea
Lobelia
Perilla
Polka-Dot Plant
Primula
SunPatiens
Sweet Potato Vine
Torenia
Viola

Perennials:
Aquilegia/Columbine
Astilbe
Bleeding Heart
Brunnera 
Foxglove
Heuchera/Coral Bells
Hosta

Edibles (for light or partial shade)
Arugula
Asian Greens
Beets
Cabbage
Carrots
Chard
Kale
Lettuce
Peas
Radish
Spinach

And here are a few tips:
1) Shade gardening often means trying to plant among established trees and shrubs where digging around roots can be troublesome. In that case, starting with smaller transplants will be easier so you won’t have to dig as large a hole.
2) Just because it’s shady doesn’t mean you won’t need to water as often. Oftentimes, those trees can suck up available moisture leaving your color plants thirsty.
3) And yes, those trees can provide instant mulch in the fall but if you fail to shred the leaves before spreading them as mulch, you might end up with a matted mess that allows diseases and pests to thrive.
4) To brighten shady areas use light-colored flowers such as white, light pink or palest blues. Dark colors tend to get “lost” in shady areas.
5) Edibles will benefit from a raised bed, just be careful of where you position the raised bed so it does not smother the tree’s roots.

For more on shade gardening, refer to these articles from these well-known sources:
Better Homes & Gardens
HGTV
Sunset

Let’s Go Garden!

Fun Plant Combos To Try


Reprinted with permission of the National Garden Bureau:

 

Fun Combination Planter Ideas

Combining different varieties or species in one container or garden bed is certainly not new but almost everyone could use a few new ideas to spark their creativity. So National Garden Bureau has perused our members’ new variety submissions, including recent AAS Winners to come up with some possible combinations you might want to try. For simplicity sake, we are only suggesting planting pairs but feel free to add a third of fourth variety, depending on the size of your planter or planting area and of course, your own personal taste.

Many great container designers suggest a thriller element for the container, meaning something tall, bold and/or dramatic. If you like the look of a softened planter edge, then by all means, add some sort of vining element if the combinations below do not offer a vining/cascading plant. Additionally, adding foliage plants to a combination planter can add texture and additional color variations.

Just experiment and have fun with your own combinations–after all, you’re the one who gets to enjoy the fruits of your labors. 

Let’s Go Garden!

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Spring Out to the Garden


Reprinted with permission of the National Garden Bureau:

 

Springing Out into the Garden

In honor of last week’s first day of spring, we want to acknowledge how eager many of us are to get back to digging in the dirt. Those of you lucky enough to be in warmer climates have already been able to do so but in some of the colder areas, we are just beginning to gingerly creep back outdoors to see what Mother Nature has in store for us this year. So what are some of the priorities or tasks that you can do before that coveted last average frost date for your area?

First, don’t walk on or work the garden soil until it’s dry enough or you’ll risk soil compaction. Until the soil is ready (click here to read about testing your soil for spring planting), work on clean-up projects and preparing other parts of the garden.

While waiting for that soil to dry out, you can plan your summer veggie garden if you haven’t already done so.  There are many seeds that can be started indoors, under lights in March and April and Pinterest is full of ideas for growing from seed.

Now’s the time when you can construct a raised bed or two, or three! Pinterest is awash with pins on how to design and build a raised bed garden.

If you let some perennials go to seed last fall for your feathered friends, you can prune most of those back now. A list of perennials to prune in the spring can be found here.

Some perennials can be divided in spring while they are still small and manageable. Here’s an article from Burpee about how to divide perennials.

If you see any weeds popping up, pull now while the soil is damp and porous.

Now is the time to clean out dead debris from perennial beds then mulch if needed. Add compost to your empty beds and work it in thoroughly to prepare for spring and summer plantings. Here’s how to add compost to an established garden bed.

Planning your veggies and want to find out which veggies are trending in the restaurant industry? Johnny’s Selected Seeds has a blog that covers several vegetable classes deemed “hot” by the National Restaurant Association.

Lettuces and various greens like cooler growing conditions – see tips here from Park Seed:

Peas are another crop to grow in cooler climates. You’ve probably heard that some areas can plant on St. Patrick’s Day but a better indicator is when the garden soil reaches 45 degrees. Here is a growing guide for peas from Territorial Seeds.

That should be enough to keep you busy until it’s officially planting time…now go enjoy the spring temperatures!

Let’s Go Garden!

Help the Monarch Butterfly


Reprinted with permission of the National Garden Bureau:

 

Help Save the Beloved Monarch Butterfly

The beautiful orange and black Monarch butterfly is one of the best known threatened butterfly species in North America. According to some of the latest surveys over 90% of the population has disappeared in the last decade mostly due to loss of habitat.  No one understands how this lovely insect can remember over 4 or 5 generations where to migrate. Different populations will travel from western Canada to central California or from eastern Canada, through the midwest, and southern U.S. and ultimately to central Mexico and back again.

The life cycle of the Monarch is complex and amazing.  First the female lays its eggs on the underside of the leaves of a milkweed plant. After 3 to 5 days the eggs hatch and the larvae (or baby caterpillars) feed on the leaves. Over the next 9 to 15 days the caterpillars will molt 5 times increasing in mass 2000 times shedding its skin each time it molts. It then pupates and spends 9-14 days as a chrysalis. When fully developed, the adult butterflies emerge and feed on the nectar of many different flowers as they continue to fly north during the next 2 to 6 weeks. Then the process starts all over again. The butterflies mate and the females lay eggs. The Monarchs that emerge as adults at the end of the summer are different from the adults that emerge earlier in the summer. Instead of mating they spend all their time and energy feeding on nectar, flying south and catching air currents which enable them to migrate up to 2800 miles to central California or central Mexico. When they reach their destination they hibernate through the winter in trees. After several months, when the weather warms up in the spring, they begin to move northward again and females lay eggs for their first summer generation. The migrating generation of Monarchs live 7 to 9 months.

Unfortunately, sprawling urban developments and  intensive farming techniques mean fewer uncultivated margins where the milkweed species can thrive and provide habitat for the Monarch during its egg and larvae/caterpillar stages. When the females cannot find suitable habitat to lay eggs, the life cycle is interrupted and the overall population decreases. While scientists have been aware for several years of the Monarch butterfly’s life threatening situation and possible extinction, promoting public, government and industry awareness of the plight of this beautiful insect is probably the only thing that can lead to saving it.

It is commonly agreed that one solution is for all aspects of our society to plant more milkweed seed to assure continuous pathways of habitat from Canada to California and Mexico where the Monarch migrates for the winter months. There are over 120 species of milkweeds (Asclepias) and several are readily available. Two species are particularly colorful, Asclepias curassavica (tropical milkweed/Bloodflower) is bright red, and A. tuberosa (butterfly milkweed) is orange. Some sources express concern when using A. curassavica as outlined here but the North American Butterfly Association says it can be used as a carefully managed garden plant as instructed below. A. tuberosa is a perennial that has been widely used in conservation and reclamation plantings. It can take 2-3 years to form a tuber before blooming. Other native species commercially available include: A. incarnata (prairie or swamp milkweed), A. speciosa (showy milkweed), and A. syriaca (common milkweed).  These species have white, pale or deep pink flowers and are the most important food sources for the caterpillars to keep the butterflies healthy according to Dara Satterfield of the University of Georgia. Her studies indicate the tropical species, Asclepias curassavica may be a source for a higher rate of the butterfly parasite, Ophryocyctis elektroscirrha. Also, if A. curassavica is planted, it should be cut down in the fall to prevent the butterflies from staying too long and interrupting their normal migration schedule. Other species should be included in any tropical milkweed planting. Since showy and common milkweed are rhizomatous, they should be planted where their fast spreading habit is acceptable.

Most milkweed species are easy to start indoors from seed. The seeds are flat, brown and oval (ovate) shaped seed 1/4 to 1/2 in. long. Plant the seed indoors (4-6 weeks before intended transplanting to the garden) in a tray or pot of a light weight peat/soil/sand potting medium with good drainage and cover with 1/8 in. of the mixture. Keep well moistened in a cool sunny window or greenhouse; the seed will germinate in 10 – 14 days. Transplant seedlings into 3 to 4 in. pots until they have a well established root system. The plants can gradually be hardened off and planted outdoors in the spring or when daytime temperatures are between 60 – 70 degrees.  Seeds of perennial species can also be planted directly in the ground in late summer or early spring when the soil can be tilled. Since Asclepias species do not like their roots to be disturbed, transplanting is more successful with well established plants in pots. It is a good idea to plant a mixture of other nectar producing plants with or near the milkweed to provide a food source for the emerging butterflies. Any wildflower or garden flower mixture designed to attract butterflies will serve this purpose as will annuals such as alyssum, marigold and zinnia.

The big question is how to get significant amounts of habitat re-established in appropriate parts of the country before it is too late and the Monarch becomes extinct. Everyone, including children, can help by planting more milkweed plants. Click here for an article about Children’s Butterfly Gardens.